Electronic Dump Valves installed!
Ok, yes, you read that right. Electric Gray and Black Dump valves. No I am not kidding. No I have not lost my mind. (Well, then again, that depends on whom you may ask.) We installed electric dump valves and wished we had done it sooner.
I know you are thinking all kinds of things from “This guy has too much time on his hands” or “Who the heck would do that!” to “Ok, now he has really lost it.” Some of you might even have thought it all the way through and said…”I would never! What if the dump tube was knocked out of place?!?!?”
Yup, I was also in that same boat. Or should I say coach? I had thought the same things for sure, even the last one for sure! But then I thought back and asked myself, have I ever found the hose disconnected when I went out to dump? Thinking back, I can think of maybe one time…ok…maybe two. But that was only after we had work done on the coach like it was being washed. Also, we can look out the window when it comes time to dump to see if anything is amiss.
So why did we do it? Simple. We keep our gray tank closed all the time so we can get the big “FLUSH” when we open the value and all the suction pulls things out. Because of this, we would be going outside every other day or so to dump the gray tank. We figured, heck, we can see the levels, we can see the hose, why not just dump from the inside and not have to go out in the rain or the cold? Seeing we also have a seasonal site, where no one is ever over by the hose area, we are pretty sure it will always be in place. Even more so as we are using a positive seal of a rubber donut.
Drain Master Pro System
So in any case, we installed the Drain Master Pro-Series System with two keypads. You may remember the name as we installed the BEST waste hose system we have ever found, the Waster Master Cam Lock Drain Hose that we did a full post on with a video. Like the hose system, it is more expensive than other valve products that you may find. (I found two others in research.) However these have a 5 year warranty which means they are really built well.
The system could not have been easier to put in. You remove your current valves and insert the new ones. It is just like putting in replacement manual valves. So it is easy, but of course it smells. In our case, for power we tapped into the water hose power reel power supply. It was right there and even had twist caps for the connection, so it was as easy as untwisting the cap, add the wire, and twist the cap back on. Same for the ground wire. So the outside install was really no issue and took me about one hour. The hardest part was cutting the metal to put in the switches. Thank goodness for the Dremel tool.
Then we needed to run the wires to the inside, after all, that was the entire point. The good news in our part was that the wires for the thermostats, etc that are in the wall, went right down into the wet bay area. So it was just a matter of putting a fish tape down the hole, grabbing it and attaching the wires to it and pulling it back. The switch control wires then just plug into the switch plate and the valves. (Each valve can accept two switches.) We put the inside switches up higher so you could not bump them and they are also right above where we see our tank reading, thus making it very convenient.
I also took the time to install a power switch. I did this, for I found the switches to be very sensitive to the press and I wanted to be sure that when we travel, I could turn off the power to the system. So when I put away the hose, or put it out, I just turn on or off the switch.
Also, if/when we sell the coach, we can take the system with us by just swapping out the valves with standard valves again. Sure there will be two holes from the switches, but that is not our issue at that point and we could just cover it with duct tape. This really is one of those things that we wish we had done sooner, as funny as that may sound. And remember, I DID consider the hose being knocked out issue, I concluded it had not been an issue in the past and seeing we look out the window to verify, we feel fine about it. The only real issue is if the parks sewer tube gets blocked, but that is where the positive seal of the rubber donut can help. Also, I do go out and do a tank rinse from time to time as I do not have a controller for that. ;)
And you know, seeing we have CoachProxy the dumping is now automated! Yup! You read that right. I no longer need to dump the tanks! You see, CoachProxy sends out a text alert when say the gray tank is at 75%. Well seeing that Brenda gets the text also, she then walks over to the switch and dumps the tank. See, fully automated. After all, I said “I” no longer need to…not that someone did not need to. :) (Love you Babe.)
Click Images for Larger View.
Old dump valves.
Wires come from inside coach.
Wires run to the inside of the coach
Cutting out the mount point inside.
Installed dump valves
Electronic Dump Valves installed!
Dump Switches with Power Switch
Inside Finished Install.
Nicely done! Dump with pride????
Ok, that was funny. :)
Thanks again Dave!!!!!
No Thanks. I don’t think you are crazy for installing this thing because you leave your grey tank closed all the time… but I do think you are crazy for keeping the grey tank closed all the time. Different strokes etc etc.
Thanks for keeping us informed on new products though.
Rich
Just one more trinket to break down.
In the larger scheme of things, it’s the “trinkets” that make for more gracious living.
Provided “gracious living” is your thing. Ha.
Limiting grey tank dumps to ensure powerful dump action is good planning. That’s why most of us DON’T leave ’em open continuously.
Very true and I even brought that up in our other video on the Waist Master CAM Lock Hose system. :)
Very few people I know keep it closed. over 6 years of full time RVing and not one problem
You may not really notice an issue…but if you were to put a camera into the tank, I bet you would change your mind. :) You can even see the issue in the other post I had done.
Okay lets think this through. When you leave the valve open all the time the waste flows down the drains and then through the bottom of the tank and out the valve etc.. Any build up is right there on the bottom of the tank. When I dump the black tank I let the grey fill mostly up with nice fresh, warm shower water. After dumping the Black etc I dump the grey which flushes out most if not all of any build up on the BOTTOM of the grey tank.
Now if you leave the Grey closed all the time as the tank is filling up the kitchen sink waste, with grease, rice etc, is leaving lines of residue up the sides of the tank and when you do finally empty those lines are not getting the powerful swoosh that you think is cleaning out your tank. all that swoosh is at the bottom of the tank.
I do like the swoosh factor for cleaning out the bottom of the Black tank where solids settle – to the bottom.
Rich
Well, nothing serious will happen if the gray valve remains open, but doing so forces one to pre-plan black dumps to ensure there will be wash water for the hose afterward. Leaving the gray valve closed obviates that concern.
Through 4 RVs and almost 25 years experience, gray tank residue has never been a problem.
We are full timers with a washer./ dryer on board. Black tank only needs dumped ever 2 weeks or so. Not a problem. If we closed the grey we would almost have to open daily.
Actually, you have grease, oil, scum, and other “floaters” in the black tank leaving a residue on the black tank walls also. That’s why they sell the spray wands, and some rigs have a spray system, and that’s one reason it’s recommended to let the tanks get pretty full before dumping.
Having said that, in full hook ups I leave my grey valve open except when dumping the black tank, and use the spray system often when dumping the black tank.
It is standard practice to keep the grey tank closed, whether you have cable pulls or this electronic system. You always want as much grey water as possible to flush after emptying the black water tank.
Yes, you’re right, of course But there are always be some who ignore standard practice, always believing they have a “better way”. I call them “often wrong, but never in doubt”. ;)
We installed our electric valves a few months back and we love them. Haven’t had any issues at all.
VanLeigh/Tiffin is putting the electric valves on the Vilano fifth wheels. I asked them when they would be putting them on the Zephyr/Bus and they said they cost too much for Tiffin to use the Class A’s.
Dave, Could these valves be actuated by your CoachProxy system ? Not only wouldn’t you have to get off the couch, but you could be on the throne as well.
They sure can if we build the interface for it. We are actually considering full automation where the CoachProxy would monitor the tanks and using logic, open and close the valves. IE…Black tank is at 75, is gray tank at at least 30? Yes – Open black value…wait…Close black and open Gray…wait…close gray. No – Wait until gray is 30% or higher then run logic. (If Black gets above 95, run dump sequence regardless.)
This “CoachProxy” has me stumped. Most all RV’ers will attest to the worthlessness of tank monitors. They aren’t even good for ‘guesstimations’. We’ve just learned to estimate when we need to dump, especially when it comes to the grey tank if we’re boondocking where we can’t just run it out into a rabbit hole (or whatever). How does the “CoachProxy” do such a better job of reporting on tank levels?
It does not. It just reads the levels that are being sent all the time across the data CAN bus. If your tanks are not on digital reading system, then it will not do anything for you and your tank readings. CoachProxy just allows your to see or control anything on the CAN system.
Since I’m not even sure what you’re referring to with the “data CAN bus”, I’m going to assume our Arctic Fox travel trailer doesn’t have this . . . We’ll continue to just ‘know’ when to dump.
Sorry, it is also referred to as a matrix switch. It is used for lighting control, data readings, etc, etc. Usually not found in travel trailers based on the costs. But are found in most coaches and now a days 5th wheels.
I’d like to automate, too. What is Brenda’s phone number?
How fast does the valve operate? Total time to fully open?
Less than 1 second.
The Valves on Davids coach Open or Close in 450 ms to 550ms 1/2 a second give or take an ms or 2.
I have a 2005 5th wheel, which I purchased in 2009, that came with electric valves. After replacing or rebuilding the valves multiple times. I called Drain Master and they went through the installation procedure, which I followed. About a year ago I had the valves replaced with manual valves. The electric valves work for several months. Then they start to stick and you have to use the Allen key to open the valve. It will work for several days and start to jam again. I did all of the trouble shooting the company told me to do. The motor is just not powerful enough. Maybe they have redesigned the motor since. I am not sorry I replace the electric valve.
Also the manufacturer of the 5th wheel had stopped using the electric valve several years ago.
Possible upgrade for us… any suggestions on where to purchase the kit? Our coach has a 1.5″ valve on the gray water side, so that creates an extra issue. BTW we have experienced the gray tank gunk build up that you describe, I believe because we have the macerator pump with the gray bypass, and that slows the flow considerably even when left open. Thinking we’ll put the pump on back-up duty, and switch to the Waste Master system. Question of the day for me is how do I clear our all the crud that has accumulated in the gray tank? It drains reasonably well for about half the tank, then trickles out forever after that. I’ve ordered some of the Swan Flush tablets, so we’ll see how that works.
To clean the gray tank, I’d go to Home Depot and buy a 1lb box of TSP (Trisodium Phosphate). Then I’d fill the gray tank with plain old water, pour in the box of TSP, and drive, drive drive. You might discover that the rocking motion of the vehicle will promote enough agitation to clean the tank pretty well. Dump the tank as soon as possible after driving, of course. Good luck.
Maybe not quite fill the tank – 3/4 or so, for more agitation inside the tank.
Thanks for the suggestion. However, we’re parked till Spring… might try it anyway.
Please so so kind to contact Doug at Drain Master as I am sure they can help. http://drainmaster.com/ Also look into Happy Campers Extreme Holding Tank Cleaner.
Thanks for the suggestion, I’d never heard of that Tank Cleaner. Have you had success with it? Thanks again.
I own a 2017 vanleigh vilano 365 that has electronic valves factory installed love it
Yes, Van Tiffin and his son are doing some great things with there 5th Wheels. Congrats on your purchase choice!
Yes the electric is great as came on our 2012 Artic Fox. But,,,,, now the switch for our black isn;t working and dealer says you can crawl under and pull down the covering and there mis a manual knife valve to use. Dealer also stated people are bringing their rigs in to have the electric valve changed over to manual.
David, how are these holding up for you? Still happy with them? We got a new bus and coming from a 5th wheel with two gray tanks, we find that the one tank gets filled quite often.
Let me put it this way, we will never have another coach without electronic Dump Valves!!! Having these with the Waste Master hose cam system, totally outstanding. If you call them to talk to them about it tell Doug I said hello. He is the developer of both.
Thanks, I already installed the cam lock system. This was next on the list
That’s a politician answer. Have you had to work on them? Have you changed to the new soils state valves? Do you have to take them apart and lube them every year?
Not sure what you get that from. It’s true. If I had issues with them, I surely would not look to use them again and would not recommend them. But to answer your questions… No have not needed to fix or replace anything. No, I have made no change to any new valves nor do I see anything like that on their site. So not aware of anything new and these have had zero issues. No, have not needed to lube them nor do I recall reading needing to.
Thank you
After reading this I will be giving them a call and ordering them
Tell them I said Hi! Doug is the developer of that and also the Waste Master Cam Lock hose system that was then sold to LCI.
David I have installed the Drain Master valves on my 2017 DRV Mobile Suites. I agree with you I will not have a camper or coach without them. I have patented a system to work with the Drain Master valves that Monitors and empties my tanks automatically. The system I designed empties, rinses and close’s the valves back automatically.
I pull up to a RV spot Install my waste hose and turn the system on and never touch it again till I’m ready to leave for my next location. No one pushes another button it monitors tank level, dumps and rinses on its own.
When I leave for a new location I push a button to empty my tanks, than I turn the system off. It works great with the Drain Master Valves. It is plug and play with Drain Master and the EZ Valve.
Hi David and Brenda,
My husband is contemplating these gate valves and is a bit hesitant about the electrical part of the install. Do you happen to know anyone in Red Bay or elsewhere that would do this? We’re sitting at the service center atm and having a few people here do some work for us. Haven’t found anyone as of yet.
Thanks,
David and Michele Gutierrez