Let’s face it, when we arrive at an new location we sometime need to setup and use our over the air (OTA) TV antenna. We do this for all kinds of reasons, but mostly to get local news and weather is my guess. (Seeing a lot of us use satellite dishes.)
If you have a crank up antenna that you can rotate, or a motorized antenna that you can turn like the one that comes on mostly all Tiffin products, then you have a much quicker way to be able to find the best pointing position before you tell your TV to scan for channels. Doing so saves a lot of time from having to scan for channels and then maybe have to scan again, or even again and then finely fine tune to get the best lock.
That is where the Winegard SensarPro Signal Strength Meter comes into play as it not only allows you to find the best direction. It also helps you fine tune before you scan with it’s built in meter; which even has a channel selector to help find your most watched network and lock on it. And the best part…it is a direct replacement for the standard plate switch that allows you to switch between the OTA antenna and Cable TV and I am going to show you my quick install.
It is good to note that in a lot of places the HDTV towers are placed somewhat in the same direction, however in other places, they are not as you may be in between two larger areas that each have their own towers. As such, you may need to make the choice on what channel you really want to lock into, and thus the direction. But this device will help you do that. So when you check into a park, they usually give you a sheet that will tell you the local OTA channels, this is DIFFERENT usually than cable channel numbers and will look more like 13.1 ABC. (You can also look it up on line) The first digits is the HDTV channel number and is what will show on the display with the strength of that channel. The number after the dot are the sub-channels. Such as 13.1 (main) 13.2 (sub 1), 13.3 (Sub 2). The broadcasters will carry different programming on these sub-channels. If you have the main channel, the sub-channels will be the same tuning.
Ok, with that said, here is a quick video of how quickly I can find our best direction after we pull into a park. This does not get into the “fine” channel tuning, but shows how you can find the strongest channel on the first scan and then achieve that best signal that channel can receive before scanning on your TV. Again, this is for ONLY antennas that can be turned. It is no good for you unless you can point your antenna.
Here is the upgrade install I did on our Tiffin Allegro Bus 45LP Solar Storm and it all starts out by removing the current cable selector that is installed in most RV’s.
It is actually easy to do, however it will require you to do some cutting based on the layout of the board on the SensarPro. The good news here is that the wood I was cutting was just thin cover board that I cut with my utility knife. You WILL NEED TO use the spacer that comes with it. This is due to where they have the screw holes. No way to screw that into wood based on where the screws go after you cut out the hole.
So, we first remove the old selector unit, paying attention to the name of the port each cable came off of. You can read this next to the connector. Then label or mark somehow each of the three coax cables. Antenna, Cable TV, and RV TV. You will also find two power connectors. The great news here is you can just pull them off the spade connector and you will use these as they will go right onto the SensarPro. Just please be sure to not let the ends touch or the power lead to touch a ground of a coax cable. I know the spade connector should be inside the sleeve just saying to be sure as you could blow a fuse and may never know it.
After marking the cables now slide the spacer over the wires so you can mount it to the board. And yes, I said mount it. The reason I did this was that I then used the spacer as the template to cut out the hole that is needed. So, I just used my utility knife and carefully cut out the wood inside the plate.
Now comes the time to connect the cables and wires to the SensarPro. This is very easy as the have nice cable extensions on each tap and are clearly labeled. So seeing you labeled your cables (you did that right?) you just match them up. You will have one left over, TV 2, no worries.
After you have the cables connected, now put on the negative cable and then the positive and the SensarPro will light up and beep once. If not, well, hummm, maybe that fuse I warned you about?
All good? Great! Just now place it all back into the hole and use the screws that came in the kit to secure it to be spacer plate. Step back, and admire your work. ;-)
Ok, now go read the instructions on how to actually use the SensarPro as I surely am not going to get into all that. Enjoy you new found faster signal finding and more cool things that light up!
The unit can be found in black or white on Amazon. Click Here
As always…a very helpful post. Keep up the good support David.
Thanks
Thanks for your information. Good info
Great upgrade. Thanks David
And get a drink! :-) Seriously, what a great vid! Appreciate all you do to keep us up to date with the techy stuff. Happy trails!
Love your Blog. Just wondering how this is different than using the built in signal strength meters incorporated into the supplied TV’s (Panasonic) in my 2014 Allegro Bus 37AP?
Thanks for all your tips!
Hi…As mentioned, when you scan using the TV, it takes time to run through all of the scan. At at point, it is your first attempt to find anything. Then you try to fine tune a station in which also take time for the meter on the TV does not update quickly. Once you think you have the best signal, it is then time to scan again to be able to get all the channels seeing you moved the antenna. Using the Winegard SensarPro you can quickly see the channels and the quick fine tune before you scan on your TV.
David, Thanks for taking the time to further explain the value of the SensaPro. I understand now and I ordered mine today from Amazon. Keep up the good work!
love these reviews.
The spacer is actually a low voltage ring made by Arlington, called the LV 1, it’s used to Install low voltage wiring in a wall without a box and allows you to mount a standard electrical device plate to it to cover the hole in the wall. Also called a box eliminator.
I thought the OTA antenna’s being installed on the new Tiffin’s were omni-directional. I was thinking about replacing my old bat wing antenna with an omni-directional to do away with needing TVFool.com and the ole compass.
Are they not omni-directional?
They may be now…this is a 2014. So not sure I am sorry to say what they are doing at this time. BTW…A directional antenna is usually more powerful than a omni.
When I replace the original amp that has an output for cable and TV included, how do I replace those connectors with this device so I can use the TV at the location the factory booster is located at, since this booster has no outputs on it? My original booster has 3 inputs (Antenna, Cable, Sat) and one output (with goes to a splitter and other TV). I already bought one, just curious on how to make it work.
Chad, I am sorry to say I am lost as this is a DIRECT REPLACEMENT of the standard 12V booster with the little button like I showed. I am not sure what to say as the connections came off one and right back on the new one. Actually, I just re-read yours and you mentioned SAT. Usually there is no SAT on this setup for it is an A/B switch for CABLE TV or Over The Air. So you have something different. But it would have 3 cables…CABLE TV, AIR (antenna), and then the line out that usually goes to a splitter that goes to the TV’s. So I am not sure where your SAT comes in.